Highlighting the good, the bad, and the ugly, ‘Look of the Week’ is a recurring series focused on analyzing the most discussed outfit from the past week.
Fashion Style Spotlight : Ashley Graham’s skirt
What distinguishes a men’s shirt from a women’s skirt? According to Ashley Graham, they can be seen as interchangeable. The model, presenter, and body positivity advocate was recently seen in New York City wearing a striking pinstriped outfit that certainly caught attention. Graham’s asymmetrical look gave the impression that a classic Oxford shirt had been whimsically blown around to wrap around her waist, worn backwards, with its sleeves fluttering as she moved. This unique style was directly inspired by the summer runway. Created by the British luxury streetwear label Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, this dress shirt was intentionally combined with a skirt. The post-punk-inspired collection challenged traditional uses of cotton twill, merging elements of office attire with loungewear, featuring scalloped boxer shorts and striped shirts reimagined as pencil skirts. During the London show in June, models showcased a bold aesthetic with disheveled hair, smeared lipstick, and heavily lined eyes.
Graham’s shirt-dress was styled in a notably simpler manner, yet it still conveyed a DIY aesthetic that has been gaining traction on social media, especially regarding the upcycling of menswear. Innovative TikTok creators have shown audiences how to convert an oversized button-down into a puffball skirt, reminiscent of the Schiaparelli piece Sienna Miller showcased at last fall’s Vogue World event to reveal her pregnancy. One of these tutorials has garnered over 1 million views. Additionally, another user proposes a unique maxi skirt by buttoning two shirts together and incorporating a belt beneath the collars to create the illusion of a tie.
Thom Browne, a prominent and highly regarded figure in contemporary menswear design, has adopted a subversive style within his signature tailoring. During the brand’s inaugural couture show in 2022, Browne transformed structured wool coats into calf-length skirts, utilizing square shoulder padding to create a striking hourglass shape for the models. In his Fall-Winter 2023 collection, Browne took a more whimsical approach to business attire, playfully deconstructing traditional pieces by combining office shirts and blazers into a voluminous skirt, mixing various stripe patterns, and completing the look with an actual tie.
Graham is not the only celebrity to recognize this emerging trend. During her performance at Glastonbury, Dua Lipa donned a custom outfit from Acne Studios that resembled a creative DIY project rather than a high-end pop star ensemble. Her embellished tank top was cleverly tucked into her bra for a more daring cropped look, while her skirt was fashioned from a repurposed oversized T-shirt, showcasing the crew neckline prominently. Julia Fox also embraces the concept of upcycling, often making headlines with her unique fashion choices. Recently, she sported a low-rise maxi skirt crafted from 11 pairs of men’s boxer shorts, demonstrating her innovative approach to style.
Whether you like it or not, this kind of shabby recycling has long served as a stepping stone for aspiring designers and fashion enthusiasts. Furthermore, the resurgence of the DIY aesthetic appears more inclusive than any previous wave of luxury logomania in an increasingly expensive economic environment. Though many celebrity looks are difficult to replicate at home, those who are drawn to Graham’s voluminous skirt are fortunately for once.
